One Day in Copan – A Photo Essay
March 31, 2015 Leave a comment
A new day was dawning and I felt rested and relaxed…. unlike the previous day. On that day I had to drive my father and I from La Ceiba to San Pedro Sula to pick up Barb and her son John at the airport. From there we would drive through the mountains to Copan de Ruines. It’s been almost a year now but I still remember it like it was yesterday. The drive from La Ceiba to SPS takes about 2.5 hours and we were running behind so I needed to drive fast. I had just risked life and limb to pass a number of slower moving vehicles on the windy two lane highway. This is white knuckle kind of driving and at one point I was doing over 140 KM while passing and darn near lost control. After all that hard work my dad had to go. “Can’t you hold it another hour?” I said. “Just pull over at one of those filling stations” he replied. I pulled over on the side of the highway and begged him to make it fast. It was like a NASCAR pit-stop with the clock ticking and everyone not wanting to lose their spot on the track. Fortunately he emptied his bladder before the slower cars caught up. But I rushed him too much and his pants were no longer dry. After another hour of driving we pulled into the airport about the time the flight was to arrive. While I was inside finding our new travel companions my dad had successfully fixed the rear view mirror that was knocked off the day before by a bicycle. The drive from SPS to Copan is much longer and harder. First, you have to make your way out of the most dangerous city in the world without incident. Then after dodging potholes and slow moving trucks you think you are close. But then the fun starts as you hit the mountains before Copan. Rock slides block the road in places and trucks crawl up steep terrain and there is just no way to pass on these roads. When we arrived at Copan I just wanted a stiff drink and a bed.
But this was a new day. I awoke before sunrise and tried not to wake my dad. We were staying in Hotel Don Udo which is owned by a dutch expat. I went to the top of the building to see the sun coming up over the mountains.
My dad was up when I returned to the room. I explained the plan for the day with John Bodrug picking us up at 9 to take us to the village of La Pintada for a meeting with the leaders. Dad couldn’t wait to visit the world famous Mayan ruins which was planned for the next day. He would skip our village visit and go by himself to the ruins. I was not going to change his mind. After that news, we went down for breakfast but they were not yet open. We strolled around the town before it became busy. Here are some shots from that morning.
John arrived on time and it was great meeting him in person after many email exchanges over the past year. John and his wife Marrianne packed up all their belongings in Ontario, Canada and moved to a citrus farm just outside Copan. The day they arrived to their new home was their first visit to Honduras. Because of its elevation on the Guatemala border, Copan has nice weather year round. Their home does not require HVAC. The cost of living is great for retirees. John was a chemical engineer and Marriann a former opra singer in Germany.
John’s Lexus RX350 had no problem traversing up the rough mountain road to La Pintada. This was the purpose of our trip to Copan. Our meeting with the village leaders was in one of the classrooms. A guy in a Hawaiin shirt and flip flops described the plans in Spanish. Villagers would dig trenches from a reservoir up the mountain and install pvc pipe to carry water down to the village. My Rotary club was providing the funding to buy the materials.
The diagram on the board showed the spring high up the mountain which was the source of the fresh water. For some reason, I had a desire to see this source. When I requested to go there the locals thought that not such a good idea. When I assured them this gringo could handle the hike, they submitted and agreed to take me the next morning. I overestimated my physical abilities but that is another story.
After wrapping up the meeting, we walked around the village and saw areas I had not seen previously. Down the hill from the school was a building occupied by weavers. A young boy accompanied me on this walk. After a few yards it hit me that this boy was blind. I held his hand and we walked several more yards. I left him with his mother before arriving at our destination. Through micro-loans some local women were able to procure looms and materials to make scarves, purses, and other items. Here are some pictures:
Walking back up the hill I saw the blind boy passed out at his mother’s feet. He had experienced an epileptic seizure and just went out. I was really worried about this boy as the mom tried to drag him back to her home. I picked up the limp child and followed her to their small dirt floor hut. I vividly remember laying him on a hammock inside the home where half completed dolls lay on the floor. The villagers make and sell corn husk dolls to tourists in town.
We met many more villagers outside and inside their homes. I was disappointed that Fransisco, a man I met on my prior visit was not there. He was out working the fields for $8 a day. The first time I saw Fransisco was in a picture posted by my friend James Adams. It was a beautiful portrait of him playing his violin.
Next we hiked to the back of the ball field to see an amazing artifact – Los Sapos or The Toads. For the Mayans, it was a ceremonial site with special powers for fertility and birthing. Most interesting was a statue that appears to be a man in the act of bloodletting by his penis. A village boy who attends a bi-lingual school in town and speaks good English led our tour. He did not mention the penis thing but I read it on a plaque.
Some young American teachers were playing baseball with the local kids as we left. For many it was their first time hitting a ball with a bat. They were having great fun.
That afternoon I walked around Copan and had some lunch by myself. I scheduled a massage while in the restaurant. It was $20 for an hour massage. A young lady greeted me at the restaurant and escorted me down some streets and through a locked gate to her little studio. I was a little nervous. Was this place safe? What kind of massage was I getting? I disrobed and laid on a makeshift massage table. It was made of wood and had a circle cut out for your face. The young lady was talented and I fell asleep at some point in the process. I paid and went back to the hotel to get ready for the evening events.
My dad was back at the hotel. He had an eventful day. First, he walked to the ruins not realizing it was quite a distance from the hotel. He also informed me he met the former president of Honduras that morning during breakfast. He was there for a wedding. I know my dad loves to talk to strangers but the President of Honduras? Dad said he would just skip the evening plans but this time I insisted he join us.
We drove my rental car to the beautiful Hacienda San Lucas owned by Flavia Cueva and her family. Flavia was President of Rotary and her family owns 300 acres around the hotel. We had drinks and appetizers with John and Marrianne. Flavia had something come up in town and could not join us. Here are some pics of her place. That is Marrianne and I doing our best Yoga poses.
After watching the sunset we went down the hill to John and Marrianne’s place for a lovely dinner. They have an outdoor kitchen and dining area that is really cool. Dinner was delicious although I can’t remember what we had. I remember Barb’s son asked for the wifi password and stayed on his smart phone most of the dinner. I also remember that Marrianne was quite funny. She is not a drinker and the two glasses of wine made her tipsy. She fell as we were leaving and let out a loud scream. John said not to worry and we departed back to the hotel.
By the time my head hit the pillow I was out again. Another day in Honduras had come to an end.